Total Length of Wire in Feet from Source of Current to Most Distant Fixture on Circuit.
American Wire Gauge sizes 12 Volt. 2 wire, 10% Volt drop
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For surplus heavy-gauge stranded copper wire Google it or check the yellow pages from the nearest big city for things like Electrical surplus or Industrial surplus, for example Central Welding will advise the right size, cut to order and ship UPS.
Heavy wire costs more but it might save money in the long run by reducing the size of the battery bank which will wear out before the wires do.
Various wire gauge conversions.
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Layout (drill centers) for part C2
* These 2 holes for the belt tensor (part C-8) drilled on the side opposite the alternator mount only
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drag these 2 gray templates to your desktop
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print 2 copies each
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glue them to pre-folded pieces of angle iron
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center punch the hole centers
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easy
Part (C-2) looks more sturdy if made of iron, but in fact can be made of hardwood or layered exterior plywood. To make it dimensionally stable (so the bolts don't loosen), soak it in (Penetrating Epoxy). An alternative is soaked in hot linseed oil after the holes are drilled and before gluing in layers. Something like this below.
Heated linseed oil is volatile and dangerous, so do it outdoors with a fire extinguisher handy, don't let it boil. Safer to warm it to 150 degrees F (65.5 C) outdoors on a sterno can and heat the wood to 200 deg. F (93 C) in an oven, then immerse the wood in the oil till it's cool, take it out, let it dry a few days or a week, then prime and paint it.
This hole takes an eye bolt which replaces the u-bolt clamp for the belt tensor (part C-8)
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A three blade impeller is more efficient than a four blade, because it has one less trailing edge, so less drag. (Two blades are better but they'll always vibrate at a wind speed that is determined by their over-all weight and how it's distributed). A graphite 2 blade, with a lead hub would work for our speeds. One blade with a counter balance is best, but I object to the high tech.
N American, milled wood is sold by unmilled dimensions, for example 2x4 lumber is planed smooth while green to 1.6 x 3.6 inches and then shrinks to around 1.5 x 3.5 inches as it dries. The wood for our blades should be dry and near to these dry dimensions, so metric conversion of 5x10 cm is probably closer to 3.81x 8.89 cm dried. I designed the blade to be cut from that standard size lumber, but don't know if it's the same everywhere (the world is big).
Select three straight-grain 2x4's x 4 -1/2 feet (5x10 cm x 1.37m) long of fir, spruce, redwood or some local wood with smooth texture. Place these boards flat on a table and mark as follows. From the left end (this is the tip), mark as shown below. Then measure up from the bottom (the back or downwind side) and mark a point at each of these intervals along the edge nearest you as shown in Fig. 3.
Figure 3. Not to scale. Shows Measurements for Leading and Trailing Edge Of One Blade
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The Leading edge is slightly curved, but the trailing edge is straight and slopes towards the root.
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Connect all these measured points with a line. This is the leading edge. Then measure up along the back edge and mark and connect those points.. Fig. 2 shows how the twist taper is supposed to look. When the wood above this line is removed, it will reveal a dandy twist taper with about a 14 to 1 slope at the tip, and about a 6 to 1 slope at the root. The twist is made that way because the tip of the blade is traveling faster than other points nearer the hub. Design-wise, it is more efficient to have an equal wind pressure along the whole length of the blade, so the faster moving points are cut with a shallower pitch and the slower points with a steeper pitch.
To remove that wood, use a handsaw to cut through the top side down as far as the marked lines on each edge, but not through them.. Make a series of parallel cuts about 3 inches apart, and with a chisel remove the wood between the cuts. Take care not to split into the wood below the cuts, (watch the grain) . Then with a Shureform or plane, smooth these surfaces FLAT from edge to edge. Flip the board over and on the back side, round off the foil shape with a hand plane. Fig. 2 can be traced onto a piece of cardboard or thin metal to be used as a template.
Figure 2. Full Scale Foil Template for standard 2x4 Lumber (dry)
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Root
Tip
Tip
Foil Template
Leading Edge
Trailing Edge
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drag this gray template to your desktop
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print it
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glue it to a piece of tin
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cut it out w/ tin snips, and fold the tin along the dotted line to form a right angle for stiffness
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easy
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The trailing edge should be about 1/16th inch (0.15 cm) thick. One-half the thickness of all layout lines should be visible when you're finished. If you take off too much or nick it with the chisel, the holes can be filled with epoxy body filler or wood dough and sanded smooth.
MAKING KIT BLADES: All you have to do is plane a bit off the upwind side to the line of the leading edge, and about 1/16th inch (0.15 cm) thick for the trailing edge, or as thin as you dare. Keep the upwind face flat from edge to edge. Don't get fancy and invent a special airfoil on the spur of the moment, remember NASA uses a computer and birds have taken 50 million years. The layout lines should all be visible when you're through. Trim the root ends so they fit together at the center on the hub. The flange bolts should pass through their ends so there'll be support to tighten the carriage bolts (B-11) without warping the hub plate.
After the pitch and foil are sanded and painted, protect the leading edge with a strip of stainless steel tape (these used to be available from Napa Auto Supply, but now I can only find them through JC Whitney, whom I would not recommend under any other circumstances, if they offer you something of "equal quality", you should decline.) held on with nonferrous tacks or staples about 5/16th (0.79 cm) inch long. Thin copper flashing works well also. Glue the flashing with formica adhesive. The metal tape is to keep dust and weather from raising the wood grain, which would spoil the airfoil. Aluminum tape works but will need replacement occasionally because it corrodes. There's also a window sealing product made of thin copper foil backed with tarred paper. It works if you can peel of the paper and wipe off the tar with solvent. Needs to be cut into 2 inch wide strips.
Measure the tapes all the same length (about 3 feet, or 1 meter) long and about 13 inches (33 cm) from the hub. Stick them to the flat side first and fold them over the leading edge and onto the back side by slicking them lengthwise, folding about 1/8th inch (0.3 cm) at a time with a piece of smooth wood. To prevent wrinkles, slick from the middle towards the ends. With a gun, put 5/16 (0.8 cm) staples about 1 inch (2.6 cm) apart along the edges to hold the edges down and prevent wrinkles when the blades flex. Staples are usually unnecessary with aluminum tape.
The next step is mounting the blades on the hub: Lay out a 9 ft. (2.743 m) diameter circle on the floor with chalk. Still using the same radius (4-1/2 feet / 1.3715 meters), mark off six equal radius length points around the perimeter. lt should come out even. If it didn't, you muffed it, so lay it out again. Pythagoreas or Aristotle claimed it was geometric proof of the order of the universe that the arc of a circle will subdivide into six equal parts using the radius as one unit of measure, (but lately it seems to have become a matter of opinion). When it comes out close to even, erase every other point and there should be three equally-spaced points around the circumference. Lay the blade tip centerline on those points, up-wind (flat) side down, foil (curved) side up.
The hub is made of a triangular piece of 3/4th inch (1.9 cm) plywood (B-8) and a triangular piece of 18 or 20-gauge galvanized tin (B-9). They're both cut to the same pattern.
* Adjust these holes to match your bearing flange
This template comes in 3 pieces because standard copier paper (blue) is only 8 x10.
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drag this blue template to your desktop
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print 3 copies in black and white
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align the edges and hash marks, and tape them together
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glue them that way to a piece of 20 gauge tin
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cut the tin and plywood (CDX) board to that shape and center punch /drill the hole centers
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easy
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Drill a 1- 1/8th inch (2.86 cm) diameter hole in the center of the tin. A sharp cold chisel on a hard surface does an acceptable job but ragged edges should be filed.
Carriage Bolts, (B-11)
Pulley, ID (B-13)
Pulley Mount, Ply centering blocks (B-3) Plywood (B-2)
Plywood (B-8)
Blades (B-3)
Hub Plate (B-9)
Flange (B-12) and bearing (B-4)
Flange (B-12) and Bearing (B-4)
Nuts and Lock Washers
Stainless Round Head Machine Screws 1 Flat washer, Lock and Nut each (B-10)
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Slide this piece of tin under the blades at the hub and line up the hole on the center of the 9 ft. (2.743 m) circle. Place part (B-8) plywood triangle on the top (downwind) of the blade root ends, and line it up with the tin on the bottom. Hold it in place with your knee and drill five holes (3/16 inch or 0.476 cm. dia.) in each root end through all sandwich pieces (mind the floor!) and bolt them solid with 3-1/2 inch #10 (8.98 x M8x1.25) RH (Round Head) machine screws. Stainless are best, if unavailable use more or heavier bolts, 1/4 inch (8.98 x M11x1.5) maybe. Measure to be sure they are equally spread, then line up a pulley flange on the upwind side shaft hole and drill 5/16 (0.79 cm) + holes through the tin and all for the 3 flange bolts (B-11). Drill a one or 1-1/8th inch (2.857 cm) hole for the shaft to go through. Run wood sealer or penetrating epoxy into all these holes until they are well soaked, otherwise the bolts may work loose with changes in temperature and humidity.
Next, whip up some kind of pulley mount, depending on what kind of pulley you use. I'm sold on aluminum "V" belts because they are cheap and handy almost everywhere. Some people like cog belts or chain drive, I think they're too much hassle, noisy, heavy, and expensive. I've used iron pulleys but they rust and the corrosion chews up the belt. Wood might be good if the surface is hardened with Polyethylene Glycol, or some of those chemicals used for turning thin wooden bowls. Don't use epoxy because it makes the belt crack. If the wood shrinks across the grain, the pulley will get out of round and make the blade vibrate from the uneven belt tension. Another advantage to the aluminum pulleys is that the spokes are usually identical between sizes from a given manufacturer, so they can be interchanged in a second to try out the best ratio for your alternator, if you cut your pulley mount to fit the spokes. A spacer block (B-2) should be placed between the rear hub board and the pulley mount (B-3) so there will be some clearance between the blades and the alternator. Drill oversize holes for the bearing mounting bolts (B-11), through the spacer block/mount (B-2 and 3) to allow for alignment adjustment
I recommend the Google products search, because they list several sources to compare prices, buyer reviews, and shipping cost. Their picture shows the pulley you want.
Do a primary center alignment of the pulley on the bearing when all the holes are drilled but before attaching the 3 blades to the hub: Assemble the hub as shown above, maybe using short 2x4 scraps in place of the blades, but don't bother to secure them. Temporarily put a piece of pipe through the bearing shaft holes and tap the pipe with a hammer while restraining the pulley with your free hand. Measure from the edge of the pulley to the pipe or bearing. When it's centered, secure it in place with some drywall screws.
The pulley mount and spacer block (B-2) should be screwed to the rear hub board and NOT GLUED to it, so that it can be tapped into center alignment once the blade and belt are mounted. If the pulley is off center slightly it will cause uneven tension on the fan belt and the blade will appear to be vibrating even though it's well-balanced. To center it, loosen the bearing and flange bolts then tap the pulley with the heel of your hand until the belt tension is equal throughout a complete revolution. If the shaft (C-1) was off center in the hub boards (B-8 and 9), tapping will force the shaft against the inside of the hole (that goes through the hub boards) before it reaches alignment. If that happened, it would stop moving even if you pound on it, so you'd have to 1) re-align the shaft to allow clearance, and possibly drill bigger holes in the spacer block, 2) re-align the pulley block, 3) rebalance. Don't hit the pulley with a hammer, they're zinc or pot metal and deform easily.
Then tighten down the flange bolts and the pulley mount screws, but not enough to deform the front hub plate triangle. I've not had a problem here, but f you feel the bolts (B-11) need to be set more than 3 ft lbs (15 Kg/M 2), use a small backup plate to spread the pressure. Moving the bearing too far in this adjustment may push the blade out of balance.
Seal it all and paint with floor enamel or topside paint. A primer coat wouldn't hurt either, you can put a latex topcoat over an oil base primer or sealer because the primer is thin, but latex on oil paint will crack.
Generally, the Belt Sizes are; For 8 inch (20.3 cm) pulley, 3/8 X 35 inch (0.95 x 88.9 cm) outside diameter "V" belt; for 10 inch (25.4 cm), 3/8 X 41 inch (0.95 x 104.14 cm) OD diameter "V" belt; for 12 inch (30.48 cm), 3/8 X 48 inch (0.95 x 121.9 cm) OD "V" belt. But set it up and measure to be sure.
The blade must be assembled with bearing, flanges, pulley, bolts, paint, and the leading edges covered before balancing. If it's put on afterwards, it'll affect the balance. Suspend the blade from the balancing gadget shown in Fig. 4.
Sweat Coupling
A
A
B
B
C
D
D
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The balancing Gadget is made from
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a 6 inch (15.2 cm) piece of NEW 3/4 inch (19 mm) copper pipe "L" wall, ("M" wall is thinner). Used pipe sometimes swells from years of pressure and could take hours to fit.
- 2 metal discs 25/32 inches (0.7812cm) in diameter with a small hole in the center of each (a penny will work, but fill the hole when you're through because it's illegal to deface). Be sure the hole is centered, and not much bigger than the string or wire (D).
- a short piece of straw or 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) plastic tube. Split the straw or tube down one side so it can be removed and trimmed easily to adjust the height of the disc.
- a piece of wire or braided string.
One disc is soldered inside the 3/4 inch (1.9 cm) copper pipe (yes, it ll fit). Use a dull tube cutter to score a groove at 2.5 inches from the top edge of the bottom end coupling, use the resulting bump on the inside to locate the disc for soldering. You have to remove the burr on the other cut end to slide the disc in. If you cut too deep, use another coupling but only solder it to th upper piece so it can come apart, see the picture below. String the whole gadget together on a wire or a piece of braided cord. Twist cord works poorly because you grow old waiting for it to unwind after the blade is hung. Wire works best. Insert the gadget into the front (upwind) side bearing. It should push into place, if it doesn't, scrape the outside tube with a pocket knife or sand it. pounding it in will knock stuff out of alignment when you pound it back out. The tube shouldn't touch the wood inside, because it may push one of the bearings off-center and cause the axle to be other than 90 degrees to the plane of the blade (which is not cool).
If the dull tube cutter method seems too esoteric, cut it through at that location and solder a copper pipe connecter to another short piece of 3/4 tube and just push them together so they can be disconnected, the idea is to align the other bearing in a straight line. Don't remove the burr on that cut. If the tube is inserted too far, it will not be sensitive enough, not far enough and it will never balance. 2.5 inches should be about right. You'll have to remove the upwind bearing to remove the 2 piece inside copper tube before the blade is mounted on the axle.
Hang the loop from a rafter or something in an area big enough to move freely around the blade when it's hung. The blade is now hanging horizontally with the pulley on top. Check the top disc (left), trim the straw so that disc is about flush with the top edge of the rear (top) bearing. If the disc touches one side, you know the other side is too heavy. So, take a few lead sinkers, battery plates, musket balls or something, and put them in a tin jar lid on the stove and heat them up. They'll melt into a nice round flat weight to use as a counterbalance to get the blade level. Pop it out of the lid and hammer the edge round to make it more aerodynamic. Punch two holes in it and start a one-inch wood screw in each hole. Then set the weight with the screws on the plywood back and shift it around carefully, until the top disc is centered and not touching anything like the picture shows. Then screw the weight in place. Viola! It's balanced. The military used to balance airplane propellers this way (sort of) before WW 2.
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ADJUSTING FOR THE FIRST RUN
When sliding the blade onto the shaft, loosen the carriage bolts (part B-6) temporarily so that both bearings will line up more nearly along the same axis. The shaft is a piece of galvanized water pipe and there may be small fluctuations in diameter from batch to batch so if the lock cams on the bearings slide all the way around and won't grip against the pipe, a small piece of shim can be fabricated from a strip of tin. Don't use aluminum shim because it's malability makes it wear loose and the bearings will wear out faster. Roll the shim and insert it between the bearing assembly and the shaft. A better fitting shaft can be made from a stock 7/8 inch (2.22 cm) diameter cold roll, round iron bar. I don't use that because it corrodes, is heavy, cost more and is less available. Both cams should be rotated the opposite direction the blade turns and tapped lightly to wedge them snug. Then tighten the set screw and give the cams and flanges two coats of rust inhibitor paint. Make a hub cap out of a light weight tin, stainless, or aluminum salad bowl. Measure the bowls' diameter and scribe a circle on the hub plate. Secure it with 3 or more evenly spaced sheetmetal screws through the bowls rim.
SET THE DRIVE BELT loose, about 3/4 inch (2 cm) play, with plenty of belt grip, (available at auto supply, or Heating and Air Conditioning stores). It seems common sense to set it tight, but with the belt stiff and new, it will cause so much friction that the machine will need about 20 -30 mph (9 to 13 m/sec) wind to work, and it won't generate according to the graph. Also the bearings might be stiff, so leave it up for a day or two before allowing yourself to be claimed by suspicions. A slipping drive belt causes the ammeter needle to stop consistantly at a given amperage even though the wind gusts are much higher. Snug the belt up a little, apply some belt dressing, and check the Troubleshooting chart. If the ammeter needle jumps from zero to 5 or 10 amps: the angle of the mercury switch is too steep. Lower the machine or climb up there and loosen the nut that holds the mercury switch clamp, and tip the switch into a slightly more horizontal position. If you have a handy fence post, you can mount the machine temporarily on that (without the blade). Tap the screw eye (C-15) forward or back, or loosen the 2 U-bolts holding the alternator pin (C-7), and adjust it so there's about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) of free space before the spring (C-12) engages to restrain feathering. Rock the feathering carriage back and forth and adjust the switch to turn of and on within that space (you'll need a volt-ohm meter or troubleshooting light). When it's properly adjusted, the needle will climb from zero without a sudden jump start. If the switch is adjusted past its optimum, the needle will show a dip to the discharge side of zero before it starts to charge. It should never show a discharge.
Tilt Mast and Tabernacle not to scale
~ 1-1/4 x 19 inch Iron Pipe (T-4)
~ Triangular wooden braces, nailed on each side prevents (T-4) from tipping sideways under stress
~ Seal terminal connections with shellac, paint, caulk or Scotch brand Electrical Connection Sealant
~ Wire guide loop or eye within 3 inches of pipe for lightning ground wire
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Place the mast to tilt DOWNWIND from prevailing winds. A stiff crosswind gust will twist the mast off, if half raised and without shrouds. The Boom Rest shown above is made of 2x4 (5x10 cm) lumber. The back leg is hinged to fold up for storage w/ blocks and tackle. The "X" should be high enough so that the blades will clear the ground if feathered. To tilt, detach only the back shroud, the others will slack automatically. A Pelican Hook is useful there. When erect, set the shroud tension only so there's no visible slack. Humming tight is unnecessary and dangerous.
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~ Swivel
~ Wire loops 2x
~ 20-30 foot pole, 4 inches at tip, 6 inches at butt
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2x3 manual shutdown lever. Bale attaches 8 inches from hinge.
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~ 4 shroud wires @ 90 deg. each, looped 2x around pole. Attach within 3.5 to 4 feet of top end. 20 penny nails or lag screws prevents shroud wire from sliding.
~ 1/2 or 5/8 inch All-thread w/ nuts and flat washers
~ Galvanized manual feathering wire, 12 to 14 gauge. If longer than 20 feet, use Nylon so the weight won't affect the feathering sensitivity. Wire ends loop 2x.
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~ Heavy wire bale, 22 inches long, folded w/ looped ends
~ Long screws attach hinge to pole
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2"x8" x 12 feet
4"x4" x 3 feet
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Through bolt, closed screw eye to attach hoist
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Fungicide
Cement
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Cable clamp
Turnbuckle
Rebar loop anchors in cement
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1 of 4 shroud wires 3/16 (0.476 cm) diameter.
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Unfasten All-thread pin to tilt mast
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Wide Loop
cable clamp
1/2 inch All-thread bolt
When cementing the two tabernacle boards in the ground, measure the distance between them equal to the width of the pole base, plus 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) . The tops will bend in to accommodate the taper when the All-thread axle is tightened.
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The best way to insure your wind machines' continued to service is: Don't think energy dependence or independence is anything absolute or it will crunch you. To set doom and eternity riding on the back of technology is foolish. Why trade dependance on a technological monster for dependance on a technological elf? What I really mean is: laugh and stay loose, diversify, invest, plant early, have kids, you already knew it.
Power Chart in Watts for 40 amp
Chrysler Alternator model 7000 on a Dragonfly
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If you use a 12-volt car battery, don't let the voltage get below about 10 volts. Mount a volt meter right next to your light switch and test it whenever it feels appropriate. Used car batteries are sometimes available from wrecking yards for about 10% of the new price guaranteed to work, but not for as long as new ones.
Deep Cycle batteries are a better choice, but they are more expensive. They can be run down to 3 or 4 volts without too much harm. Used ones are available from golf cart maintenance companies and paraplegic supplies (electric wheel chairs), possibly also from electric fork lift maintenance companies. They are usually returned when they are eight months old and exchanged. The used ones may be good for several years and cost very little, but they may also fail quickly in exotic ways. Get the opinion of the dealer.
If they contain lead/zinc they will last longer but their charge will be slowly tapering off. If they contain lead/antimony or lead/calcium, they can take repeated quick-charges, (if you expect frequent hurricanes), but fail suddenly. The choice is: bang or whimper. A better battery is nickle-iron, they last 50 years but are big and expensive.
A large new set of Deep Cycle, lead-acid could cost more than $1,000 at 1980 prices, God knows what they'll cost by the time you read this, but I don't advise you to throw your money around like that. A little care will keep you from having to replace them as soon as the warranty runs out.
To make them last:
- Keep them dry, out of the rain and dew, preferably indoors, but a large box will do, or under the house.
- Ventilate the enclosure: they let off hydrogen and oxygen which will blow up convincingly if ignited. So don't let the gases accumulate and don't smoke around the batteries.
- Don't set the batteries on the ground even if it's dry, make a rick platform of 2x4 lumber so there'll be ventilation underneath also.
- Don't let them freeze. They keep themselves warm while being used, but they won't always be in use. Water freezes before electrolite. When the temperature falls, the charge will too, when the temperature rises, the charge will too.
- This is a trick to double or triple the life of your batteries by removing the sulphur that builds up between the plates, (But it doesn't work on a dead one).
This procedure is said to have been common folk knowledge before 1940, and was also used by the US Army. It has largely fallen from accepted use due to the relatively cheap price of batteries today, and has been challenged by battery manufacturers, possibly because of changes in Lead Acid battery design, or for the benefit of sales.
- Dump the electrolite out into a plastic tub, not metal.
- Let it drain well and save the electrolite.
- Fill the batteries back up with fresh water, rinse and drain.
- Fill them with diesel or kerosene and leave it to soak overnight.
- Drain the kerosene out good and pour the electrolite back in.
- Put a charge on it.
- Keep the batteries full.
- Keep the tops clean.
- Don't wear good clothes, spilled acid is invisible till a hole appears.
Or here's the Definitive
2015 US Army battery maintenance manual PDF
1920 US Army battery maintenance manual PDF.
Bill Cornelius 1981
WS Cornelius Enterprises, PO Box 57, Albion CA, USA 95410
email: billcor@mcn.org
Table of Contents Introduction Parts list: Imperial Metric Layout Drawings Descriptio...
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Table of Contents Introduction Parts list: Imperial Metric Layout Drawings Descriptio...
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