These drawings are scaled to print 8x10 so you can have a copy at your bench, but the resolution is so-so. For color & better detail, click "Color Blowup"
The feathering spring, part(C12) is attached to the wood frame by a screw eye, part(C15), see D1, D2 and Bottom View. The springs' lower end hooks through a 3/16 inch hole in the alternator pin part(C7). This pin can be shifted to adjust the springs slack at rest. The strength of the spring should be around 16 pounds at 1 foot extension. The spring has two functions: to reduce gyroscoping (Yaw) in gusts, and to allow the alternator to reach its max output before 100% feathering. Pneumatic screen door closers work well to, but some have weather sensitive parts.
Parts (E13) shown above are an alternative to the mercury switch (see D3). The wire from the Ignition side of the Voltage Regulator attaches under the mounting screw head of (E13-b). A 600v. 5mfd diode (E19) supreses sparking at the contacts. An alternate protected location for the diode is shown in D3 right. Without the diode, the contact will cause radio static and will need cleaning every two weeks or so.
E13-a: 16 guage iron, (galvanized, or stainless) 5/8 X 10 inches.
E13-b: 16 guage copper heat sink bent to an "L".
E13-c: 16 brass Round Head machine screw, 10-24 X 1 inch.
Please READ THIS big deal & Important Disaster Prevention Note:
If the tail bolt nuts (F5) work loose, the tail vane will eventually fall off, causing the machine to orient downwind and be unable to feather, so the blades will break :( and there will be flying splinters, arrows, spears and clubs (by any definition). Fortunately, this latent catastrophe is entirely preventable! Simply use Lok-tite thread glue, nylon lock-nuts, or ding the threads. (yaaay!)
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